Pluto Designs
Pluto is a planet, or so they say. The ice and rock body with five known moons has become a topic of passioned debate between scientists and fans, but for Brooklyn-based designer Paloma Ianes the curious little planet that dances with Neptune has been a constant source of inspiration.
Pluto Designs incorporates organic shapes, ocean themes, and bright pops of color to create pieces of hand-crafted, wearable art to uplift the spirit. Relaunched last year, Pluto Designs incorporates a variety of precious materials such as pearls, sea glass and delicate abalone shells to create affordable jewelry that has developed quite the dedicated fan following, of which the designer never shies away from showing her gratitude. “When you shop from a small business like Pluto,” she wrote in an instagram post earlier this year, “chances are you aren’t just supporting their livelihoods but also their mental health and creative ambitions. And that’s a magical thing.”
We caught up with the artist to discuss how jewelry is a reflection of one’s self-expression, why the ocean is such a source of inspiration to her, and the importance of keeping her work affordable.
Can you tell us a little about your artistic history? Were you always making jewelry, or have you delved into other artistic mediums before pursuing it?
I’ve been making art since as far back as I can remember. I’ve gone through so many different mediums (photography, illustration, painting, sculpting) but I have always come back to jewelry. There was a time I was sure I was going to be a fine artist, however I’ve become disillusioned (and still am) with the visual art industry. Don’t get me wrong, I think there are fantastic artists making big waves, but in general I always felt that my paintings and illustrations couldn’t achieve the level of human connection that I craved. Jewelry, at least in my opinion, is very personal. It’s close to your body, it becomes part of your self-expression and individuality. When I’m making a pair of earrings I think, “These are going to go in someone’s ears and be part of that person’s day and how they feel.” My jewelry will be with that person, traveling with them everywhere they go. I love that about jewelry. My pieces are like little traveling sculptures. The static nature of traditional fine art always bugged me. I want to create art that moves around and has a little life of its own.
Aqua Hoop
Sea Cucumber Earring
Pluto Designs was relaunched in May 2020. What was the driving factor in bringing the brand back to life again?
The May relaunch was basically me realizing that there was intense interest in my jewelry and if I wanted to make this my full-time career I needed to regroup and reorganize. So, I shut it all down for a while and used that time to focus on sourcing materials, finding a studio and hiring an assistant. Her name is Katie. She is amazing, and I can’t wait to grow Pluto with her.
Many of the materials you use come directly from the ocean. Even the other materials that you incorporate into your work, opal and tourmaline, still lean into that ocean blue. What is it about the ocean that makes it such a source of inspiration for you?
I love water. I definitely don’t drink enough water, but I love it, especially big bodies of water. My friends know that if they want to plan a vacation with me it needs to be near a body of water for me to be interested. But I think specifically for Pluto, it’s the “otherworldliness” of the ocean that I draw the most inspiration from. I find myself getting a lot of inspiration from the cosmos as well (hence Pluto). My work tends to take on very organic, abstract forms that remind me a lot of sea creatures. Not so much dolphins, whales and fish (although I love all three). I’m thinking more about sea cucumbers, cephalopods, and all those other alien-like organisms. These otherworldly creatures really inspire me. They really make you realize that life is so diverse, and nature is infinitely creative.
Are there any pieces you’ve designed so far where it was a difficult process to go from the conceptual idea to the finished product? How did you overcome that barrier?
My designing process is unusual, and I didn’t even realize it until someone pointed it out to me. Basically, from what I’ve seen, most designers start off with conceptual sketches then they choose colors, materials and plan out technique. I don’t plan anything in advance. Not saying it’s the smartest or most efficient way, but it’s just how my brain works. I spend hours searching for cool natural materials that I find exciting. Once they are delivered and I have them in my hands, that’s when I start to play around and then the ideas pop into my head. I’ll spend hours laying out pearls and little stones in all sorts of patterns and then when something clicks, I just pour some resin over top and call it a day.
What specific project or jewelry item has been the most influential for you so far?
My very first resin projects were by far the most influential so far. I knew immediately I had found a material that would be very essential to my work. I knew that resin was the key to giving me tons of creative freedom, allowing me to infuse all my designs with that water-like aesthetic.
Disco Ball Hoops
Atlantis Earrings
Petal Earrings
Despite using precious materials, having work that is affordable is important to you. Why is this such a core value?
It’s unsettling for me to imagine someone being drawn to my jewelry but then having to pass it up because it’s unaffordable. I don’t want my work to only be accessible to wealthy people. The art and fashion industries already have enough classist bullshit going on, it doesn’t need any more of that energy. If I didn’t have to make a living, I would sell my work for even cheaper. Everyone should be able to own beautiful things.
How was it seeing your designs featured in a L’Officiel Brasil beauty editorial recently? How did that come into being?
Angelina Scantlebury found me on Instagram. She is an amazingly talented stylist and she asked if she could incorporate some of my work into her looks. I was blown away! Seeing the photos was just such a great reaffirmation that I’m doing something I love, and I am doing it well. I am so grateful for Angelina giving an emerging jewelry brand a chance to be featured. It really reminded me of how impactful it can be when someone gives emerging talent an opportunity to showcase their work. As Pluto grows, I hope to one day be in a position where I can help others advance their creative practice.
What goals are you still hoping to accomplish this year with Pluto Designs?
Pluto is ready to grow bigger and better, and I am so excited to finally have someone else on board helping me with everything. This helps free me up so I can focus more on designing new pieces. I am also in conversation with some really talented people, so lots of exciting projects and future collaborations.
